Michel Guérard is to Eugénie-les-Bains what the pope is to Vatican. He’s the master of this thermal resort located not far from Pau. He’s very famous for being the one who started the lean cuisine movement in France. But don’t compare him to some supermarket diet brand, we’re talking Michelin Stars here.
AN AUTHENTIC AND SPONTANEOUS CUISINE
We started off with an all time classic, the truffle zephyr. It’s a sort of floating island on top of a vegetable velouté, twisted by the powerful balck truffle scent. My dinner companion had the shrimp with citrus ravioli and a delicious herbs sauce. Less impressive than the black truffle zephyr but coherent and harmonious.
Then, I went with another classic from Michel Guérard, the beef tenderloin, slowly cooked in the fireplace. It comes wrapped around in a fabulous crust, the meat is slightly pink and the fireplace gave it a foresty scent.
My pal had the sea bream, virgin if not for the herbs seasoning which gave it an surprising green color. Its not only aesthetic but also very tasteful. I had the same fascination for this dish than the one I had recently for the zebra-like turbot at Ledoyen.
FROM THE GARDEN TO THE DESSERT, IT WAS FARM TO TABLE
The dessert menu is an ode to fruits and Guerard’s garden in general. We’re not talking about sophisticated traditional French pastry here. But these are well executed and the emotion remains intact. I went with the verbena soufflé, and its verbena ice-cream. The fluffly texture of the soufflé combines well with the creamy ice-cream. My dinner companion had the peach twisted by a raspberry sauce. Not bad either, right?
What about the bill? A dinner at Guerard comes up at about €160 each, it’s quite something. Although think about the prices in Paris for the equivalent Michelin Star tables and you’ll quickly realize it’s not a bad deal after all.
• LES PRÉS D’EUGÉNIE – MICHEL GUÉRARD •
234 Rue René Vielle
05 58 05 06 07