We stopped at the Metropolitain for one night. The chef, Paul-Arthur Berlan, took part in the 2012 Top Chef tv show and even went to the final. He opened his restaurant in Saint-Paul, one of the most trendy Parisian neighborhoods. The food is more than a mere tv distraction though. Every dish we had was well executed and thoughtful.
The service was experienced and not too formal. They succeed in keeping up the rhythm even though the crowds still line up at the Metropolitain.
WELCOME ON BOARD
The marinated gambas came with a refreshing seasoning: granny smith and red pepper.
My dining companion had the crunchy “oeuf mollet”, perfectly cooked. It combined well with the asparagus. Things started amazingly.
Things were more conventional after that. I had a solid veggie dish: risotto fregola sarda with mushrooms. Fregola sarda are very tiny pasta, that are cooked risotto style. Simple but it works well. My friend went with the chicken supreme, the meat was tender as a rose and we could finish it with the spoon.
AT THE TERMINAL, WE DON’T WANT TO GET OFF
Crottin de Chavignol is a traditional French cheese, but this time we’d have loved something more conformist. Olive oil and red pper puree don’t have much to do here. The lemon pie is fantastic, with a great citrus burst. The chef once again went off the beaten path by replacing the traditional crust by a sablé breton, a traditional biscuit from Britanny.
Last word? For less than €50 each, we had a full ticket for heaven. The chef only made a few mistakes but we quickly forgot them.
• MÉTROPOLITAIN •
8, rue de Jouy
09 81 20 37 38
Quartier : Saint-Paul/Marais/Place des Vosges