The head chef of the restaurant Ledoyen, Christian Le Squer, has been there for over ten years and he has succeeded to craft an exceptional menu. What about the venue? Located in the Carré Champs Elysees, only steps away from the Petit Palais, the restaurant Ledoyen looks like an obscure golf country club from the outside.
Chef Le Squer’s cuisine places a great emphasis on the product and each course was very well balanced in terms of flavors, nothing was superficial. Price is what you can expect from a three Michelin starred restaurant but it’s worth it.
What makes Ledoyen great is definitely not its service. The staff was a bit snobbish and I wish they had explain with more details the different courses we had, or they had the same sense of humor they had at Guy Savoy.
As we were looking at the menu at Ledoyen, a platter of creative mise-en-bouche was brought to us. The spheres were filled with flavored liquid and literally exploded in our mouth. It’s quite something if you’re used to traditional foie gras mise en bouche.
The quality of the bread at Ledoyen was stratospheric. Special mention to the cereals bread which I find usually too dry, but this one was moist and slightly fatty in consistency.
I started off with a transcended version of the carrots salad. Some were steamed, others were pan fired and there was also a delicious carrots puree. These contrasting colors were a real pleasure for our eyes. But the seasoning was also enlightening. And the star of the show, the carrots were sometimes slightly crunchy, sometimes more creamy but always flavorful and delightful to my palate.
Ledoyen is well know for, among other things, it’s great seafood menu. My partner in crime had the spider crab coming in its icy shell and its pressed juice. That’s a signature dish, and it’s absolutely delicious: the iodine taste of the pressed juice espuma matches greatly with the crab meat.
It was not only the two of us that night, so we’ll feature a third appetizer, once again a signature dish at Ledoyen: two fat lengths of langoustines were well-prepared and attractively paired with citrus sauce that had depth and tonality. That was an accomplished dish.
The tonic sauce gave a nice energy to the whole dish. The flavor of langoustine was intense, they were perfeclty cooked and we loved the combined crunchiness and smooth meat from the tail.
Let’s leave the ocean, my friend had the lamb saddle, well cooked, slightly pink as he likes. The potatoes combination is not very creative but it works well.
We had another signature course at the restaurant Ledoyen : zebra-striped braised turbot with black truffle potatoes puree.
The chef clearly understands the nature of turbot and he cooked the fillet just right: barely set on the outside, leaving the inside opaque and silky. The waxiness and creaminess of the potatoes was a wonderful combination.
My friend had the Croquant de Pamplemousse cuit et cru. This specialty involved grapefruit sorbet layered with suprêmes of grapefruit in between sugar glass. The base layer of the croquant was formed with a sort of delicious confiture of grapefruit– thick, smooth, and delightfully sweet. Sweet, bitter, and sour, it was perfect.
I skipped the dessert but the huge plate mignardises that was brought to us, including gigantic meringues. On a more personal note, chef Le Squer, originally from Britanny, ended our meal with a Kouign Amman a traditional pastry from his region.
Ledoyen belongs to this kind of restaurants where you not only go for what you’ll eat but also because you feel like you’re part of French history when you get in the main dining room. I have to admit it becomes more arguable when you see the bill comes up to €300 for each guest, but what we had in the restaurant Ledoyen was exceptional that night.
If you’d like to know more about the menu at the restaurant Ledoyen, click here.
1 Avenue Dutuit
01 53 05 10 00