It’s frustrating to see that most of new restaurants openings happen to be in the 10th and 11th arrondissement. There’s not been quite a lot of exciting news in Saint Germain des Prés and in the left in general. Graff is an exciting exception. Our dinner was more than pleasant except for a few blunders.
Chez Graff, the chef masters the repertoire of bistronomy
Burrata from the Pouilles region with black truffle and watercress. It goes straight to the point, the combination of mozarella and black truffle works well. The Italian cheese is still slightly milky which is how I prefer it. The chef added a few pieces of tangerine and figs which gave an interesting fruity touch.
Then I had the fettuccelle with lemon, Parmigiano cheese, smoked pork belly and gambas. The pasta had a gread texture, and the association of pork and shrimps was surprisingly effective. Too bad the texture was not very interesting, I’d have loved a crunchy touch.
Dried pears and crumble? It rocks
We finished off nicely with the dried pears, lemon curd, crumble and dulce de leche ice cream. It was the first time I tasted dried pears and I was not disappointed. Though the dried skin is not very appetizing, the flavor of the fruit is well preserved and the inside remains very soft. It matched perfectly with the crumble. The dulce de leche ice cream will satisfy the sweet tooth who need a sugar boost at the end of the meal.
IN A NUTSHELL : Graff is probably one of the most underrated restaurants in Paris, outshined by the wave of openings in the 11th and 12th arrondissement, but you shouldn’t miss it if you’re in the neighborhood. Tthe chef is creative and succeeds in combining interesting flavors.
Budget : Lunch menu around €20, diner menu about €40.
• CHEZ GRAFF •
62 Rue de Bellechasse
75007 Paris +33 1 45 51 33 42
Neighborhood : Varenne/Rue du Bac/Solférino/Bon Marché