Go to the Fort de l’Ocean for the view, or for the cuisine. It is situated in the lovely village of Le Croisic, in the very southern part of Brittany (the purists will argue it’s not Brittany anymore down there). The most lucky of you will stay overnight in one of the bedrooms upstairs. Old fashion but luxurious and with such an incredible view on the Ocean.
Chef Guillaume Brisard was handed a Michelin star in 2011. But Michelin Starred restaurants often sounds like white tableclothes, silver tableware and fine desserts. But the buzz word is definitely not “teddy bears” when I think about that. We found a bunch of them in the main dining room. Unfortunately the staff was not able to explain us the reason for this bold pick for the setting, they need to find an audacious story.
The butter comes from Bordier — a small French producer of high-end butter — we need to kidnapp this butter mastermind soon for an interview so you can meet him. I spread a dollop on my bread. Repeat. A dozen times later, butter is gone and I haven’t chosen anything from the menu yet when the waiter comes to inquire. Let’s have the tasting menu (€80).
Spanish Tomato Bread. Here the tomato is very fresh and the lomo — a variation of patanegra ham with some added spices — is quite tasteful. The most stunning was the cold romarin-tomato infusion. You can’t go wrong by having these two together. The prawns’ tails are equally amazing, perfectly broiled so that the flesh exalts all its flavours. I’m more skeptical with the clams’ fritters. The crust is somewhat greasy and overwhelms the delicate scent of the clam.
Pigeon, chanterelles and dates’ sauce. That was really not very good looking but it was certainly delicious. Pigeon and dates are going very well together. The meat is slightly pink, the best way to fully appreciate its flavours. The zucchinis hazelnut aren’t smashing yet.
Desserts are certainly not to be remembered at the Fort de l’Ocean. The vanilla smoothie is quite disappointing, the texture is really to frothy. As for the Lilliputian strawberry roll cake, it would need a little flavour twist to bring us to Grum-land.
All in all, the Fort de l’Océan is not to be missed if you’re in this nice region. Some dishes were disappointing but the Chef is clearly skilled and we must give him some credit because he moved in recently there. It’s not exactly cheap (around €80) but there were many cheapest options. The incredible view from the veranda is worth the trip. More information on the menu and the restaurant here.
LE FORT DE L’OCEAN
44490 Le Croisic
+33 (0)2 40 15 77 77