It seems like everyone’s craving for streed food and “naturalité” these days in Paris. The Breton cuisine is not exactly in the spotlight, but l’Auberge du Roi Gradlon is a solid restaurant for those of you looking for kouign-amann and Kig Ha Farz.
The €26 prix-fixe at l’Auberge du Roi Gradlon is a deal. If you’re familiar with the hefty pricetag of a dinner in Paris, no need to rub your eyes, there’s no scam here. We started out with a coco de Paimpol beans velouté. This type of bean is far from being fancy in France, you usually find in every mom and pop’s pantry. The texture was perfectly smooth though, not too starchy as one could expect. The earthy and buttery flavor of the beans was extremely satisfying to start off our meal.
The egg, sunny-side up style, was equally pleasant. Nested under the creamy yolk, a panful of boletus mushrooms suddenly appeared as a nice surprise. They also added some flavourful eggplants, not overcooked and still slightly crunchy.
The Kig Ha Farz was the highlight of our dinner. This regional version of the traditional “pot au feu” is not easy to pronounce, but it’s worth ordering if you stop by l’Auberge du Roi Gradlon. This dish was once considered for the poors, but it has become harder to find these days unfortunately. The various meats — ham hock, beef and bacon — were perfectly simmered and came with a bunch of vegetables including carrots, shallots and potatoes. The little Breton’s touch is the buckwheat pudding which adds some consistency to the dish.
For desserts, we could not miss the kouign-amann and the crepe. These two stellar Breton specialities are famous all over the world now, but even in France it’s find to find good ones. To put it softly, a kouign-amann is simply buttery puff pastry rolled in sugar, so that it gets a fabulous caramelized crust when it comes out of the oven. The kouign-amann they make at l’Auberge du Roi Gradlon is not the biggest portion we’ve ever had, but it’s flawless. The puff pastry is not too heavy and the outside was well caramelized. The crepe was another hit, it came with a homemade chocolate sauce and a scoop of intense vanilla ice cream.
The setting at the Roi Gradlon is not too formal but very pleasant and the staff was surprisingly efficient to Parisian standards.
Budget: prix-fixe menu at €26